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	<title>Comments on: Paper Tests for Solargraphy</title>
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	<link>http://www.greggkemp.com/projects/papers-for-solargraphy</link>
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		<title>By: Gregg</title>
		<link>http://www.greggkemp.com/projects/papers-for-solargraphy/comment-page-1#comment-12343</link>
		<dc:creator>Gregg</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jul 2011 04:28:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.greggkemp.com/?p=715#comment-12343</guid>
		<description>Hi Joe,
I have a Epson Perfection 3200 Photo scanner. The light from the scanner does fog or degrade the image a noticeable amount each time you scan. I usually scan only once. I have found that, for my scanner, if I scan at too high a resolution, the scanner will stop momentarily during the scan and this will result in a division or break in the scanned image file. So I usually scan at around 600 - 800 dpi for a 4x5 inch negative. I scan at night with as little ambient light in the room as possible. I cover the negative on the scanner with black felt to reduce the amount of light around the negative when I scan.  With a better or faster scanner, it may be possible to scan at a higher resolution without too much fogging of the negative.

The paper needs no developing. Developer would turn it black. However, it is possible to fix the image by using a solution of sodium thiosulfate. Most commercial fixers will bleach out the image, so you should mix your own solution of this fixer. But this fixer will still remove some of the image in the negative. It also removes much of the color. 

Hope this is useful information for you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Joe,<br />
I have a Epson Perfection 3200 Photo scanner. The light from the scanner does fog or degrade the image a noticeable amount each time you scan. I usually scan only once. I have found that, for my scanner, if I scan at too high a resolution, the scanner will stop momentarily during the scan and this will result in a division or break in the scanned image file. So I usually scan at around 600 &#8211; 800 dpi for a 4&#215;5 inch negative. I scan at night with as little ambient light in the room as possible. I cover the negative on the scanner with black felt to reduce the amount of light around the negative when I scan.  With a better or faster scanner, it may be possible to scan at a higher resolution without too much fogging of the negative.</p>
<p>The paper needs no developing. Developer would turn it black. However, it is possible to fix the image by using a solution of sodium thiosulfate. Most commercial fixers will bleach out the image, so you should mix your own solution of this fixer. But this fixer will still remove some of the image in the negative. It also removes much of the color. </p>
<p>Hope this is useful information for you.</p>
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		<title>By: Joe</title>
		<link>http://www.greggkemp.com/projects/papers-for-solargraphy/comment-page-1#comment-12342</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jul 2011 01:49:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.greggkemp.com/?p=715#comment-12342</guid>
		<description>Hello, I am having difficulty finding more information on the scanning process. Is that just a scanner, a regular one? Won’t the light from the scanner damage the outcome of the final product? 

Someone was telling me that the photographic paper would need some sort of developing chemical, something. But I am finding out that with this you will not. Am I correct? 

Thank you for your time, your post on this page got me interested in solargraphy!!
Joe from Texas</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, I am having difficulty finding more information on the scanning process. Is that just a scanner, a regular one? Won’t the light from the scanner damage the outcome of the final product? </p>
<p>Someone was telling me that the photographic paper would need some sort of developing chemical, something. But I am finding out that with this you will not. Am I correct? </p>
<p>Thank you for your time, your post on this page got me interested in solargraphy!!<br />
Joe from Texas</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Gregg</title>
		<link>http://www.greggkemp.com/projects/papers-for-solargraphy/comment-page-1#comment-11656</link>
		<dc:creator>Gregg</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 23:56:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.greggkemp.com/?p=715#comment-11656</guid>
		<description>Alyssa, I have not tried that. I would be interested in your results.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Alyssa, I have not tried that. I would be interested in your results.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Alyssa</title>
		<link>http://www.greggkemp.com/projects/papers-for-solargraphy/comment-page-1#comment-11655</link>
		<dc:creator>Alyssa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:56:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.greggkemp.com/?p=715#comment-11655</guid>
		<description>Have you ever tried reversing the paper negatives onto color photo paper instead of scanning them digitally?  I plan on experimenting with this process...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have you ever tried reversing the paper negatives onto color photo paper instead of scanning them digitally?  I plan on experimenting with this process&#8230;</p>
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